Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Canelé-ology



I've learned a few things about canelé that may be useful to others interested in making this pastry.

1- Clotilde's recipe over at Zucchini and Chocolate is a very good one if you follow it very closely.
2- Oven temp accuracy is very important. Use an accurate oven thermometer, verify your temps.
3- Do use butter and beeswax to glaze your molds. Silicone molds as well as copper molds benefit from this technique.
3a- Don't prepare much more beeswax and butter mix than you'll be soon using. The mixture doesn't improve with age
4- You can get excellent results using ordinary all-purpose flour (Pillsbury-Gold Medal)
5- Don't skimp on the vanilla or the rum. Don't go overboard either.
6- Silicone molds can produce excellent results. Copper molds are lovely but not mandatory.
7- Do not crowd your molds. Even heat is important for proper baking. Copper molds are quite forgiving of crowding but silicone molds need space around them.
8- Follow the recipe scrupulously. Canelé are not forgiving.
* Use orange zest sparingly. We use the zest of three oranges for a 4 gallon recipe.
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Check out my Brit buds over at Eat-Drink-Man-Woman. Turned onto canelé right here at PMC but they're thinking they need to go to Bordeaux to get the real canelé deal. Uh uh. Come again. Visit Philly for canelé and visit Vetri for Italian cooking that rivals anything they've covered in their extensive Italian culinary pilgrimages.
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At Market Day Canelé we made a few refinements in the last year.

We use a ton of vanilla beans. The once used beans get incorporated into a homemade vanilla extract. I think the FDA rule for extract is vanilla solids @ 23%. Since we have so many beans our extract is made with 60-70% solids and the liquid is rum. This 'extract' is bracingly vanilla and adds a luscious creaminess to the pastry.

We use organic pharma or food grade beeswax from Jedwards. It's a clean, sweet and pure product. Organic is expensive but a worthwhile value in my view.

We always use rBGH free milk and butter. We use meadow farms wildly fresh, pasture eggs any time they can supply us. Otherwise we use 365 brand.

Please message me with any questions or suggestions.







5 comments:

Man-Woman said...

ok, ok, we'll come over to Philly. now don't tell us you also make wine?! ;-)

Gaetano said...

I can take you on a tour of South Philly, our wine making region.

There may be an aged bottle of homemade Strega in my cellar.

We do have remarkable culinary riches in Philly. I'm happy to be your guide. Suggestion #1, Don't stay at the Shittenhouse Hotel. Suggestion #2, Let me know when you're coming. We need to be sure and get you a table at Vetri.

Man-Woman said...

Hi Gaetano,
sorry for the delay, we are now snowed under in Bavaria...
wow, homemade Strega, you as our guide in Philly, it sounds like a dream: now one more reason to come over there, and this is a threat :-)

Hazel said...

thank you for this! i don't know how i even got to your page but i am just literally absorbing each helpful tip you're dishing :) THANK YOU! it'll be my first time to make these. I was trying to find a recipe to do to use the leftover egg yolks I got from making macarons..which are also iffy...ah, why do the french make such temperamental desserts? lol :) again, thanks!

Gaetano said...

Hazel,

Good luck with your canelé. Let me know about your results or if you need any help.