Friday, May 7, 2010
This post at the Washington DC City Paper contains a vid by Scott Hocker. Does he fancy himself the queen of canelé? Scott brings us to a stoic and sanctimonious baker who prepares one dozen canelés a day. You get the impression that these two were primary consultants on Isabelle Bunisset's Cannelè tome (photo).
There are several things I'd like to point out about this vid:
#1 A sanctimonious mien will taint your canelé batter.
#2 Candles and canelés are different objects. Use just a film of wax, not enough to set a wick.
#3 Scott is mistaken when, with regard to silicone, he whines "no textural contrast whatsoever."
#4 In my view, baking 12 canele a day is really not experience enough to hold forth on the subtleties of the canelé.
#5 Finessing the batter is a bit more involved than just steeping a few beans in milk. She uses enough rum so that you might imagine that you taste it.
#6 Scott has checked out the canelés in Bordeaux. So what? Has he sampled our fare here in Philly?
On the positive side their technique is close to what you see in the vids here at Baillardran. Their canelé do look lovely and I bet they taste pretty good too.